Hair waving method



Nov. 28, 1933. w. H. H. DAVIS HAIR WAVING METHOD 4 Shee ts-Sheet 1 FiledDec. 5, 1932 INVENTOR. M76270? /7 H DOV/3 BY Nov. 28, 1933.

w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVING METHOD Filed Dec. 5, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. H////'a/77 /7( /7f Dov/l5 A TTORN Nov. 28, 1933.

w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVI'NG METHOD Filed Dec. 5. 1932 4 Sheets-$heet 3 4 7 INVENTOR.fl/////0/77 /7'. /7. Dar/5 A TTO NE YS.

Nov. 28, 1933. w. H. H. DAVIS 1,936,662

HAIR WAVING METHOD Filed Dec. 5, 1932 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 73 7/ 5 2y T w 37mum/1mm INVENTQR.

A T'TORNE YS.

Patented Nov. 28, 1 933 HAIR WAVING METHOD William H. H. Davis, SanFrancisco, Calif., as signor to United States Appliance Corporation,

San Francisco, Calii'.,

forma a corporation of Cali- Application December 5, 1932. Serial No.645,703

Claims.

This invention relates generally to methods and apparatus for the wavingof human hair, particularly of the type adapted for commercial beautyparlors where heat is applied to lend permanency 5 to the wave.

Before outlining the objects of the present invention, it may beexplained that in the past two general methods have been employed in thewaving of hair. In one method, known by the name no croquignole, aprotector is clamped upon a flattened strand of hair, near the scalp.The operator then winds the flattened strand of hair upon a curler,beginning with the tip of the strand, and winding towards the protectorwith successive convolutions on top of each other. When substantiallythe entire strand has been wound upon the curler, and the curler isadjacent to the protector, the parts are held in such relationship whileheat is applied. One disadvantage inherent with this method is that itis frequently diificult to properly distribute the strand upon thecurler, with uniform tension, because the largest portion of the strandis placed outermost. A further disadvantage is that the winding downoperation upon the curler requires both hands of the operator, andtherefore a certain amount of pull is imparted to the scalp to thediscomfort of the patient. The other method of waving in general use, isknown by the name spiral, and utilizes an elongated pencil-like wavingrod upon which a bunched strand of hair is wound, one convolution nextto the other, like the helicoidal thread of a screw. Spiral waving hasthe disadvantage that it requires a greater amount of skill on the partof the operator, and it does not produce a wave which is as natural asthe croquignole method, due to the bunching of the strand.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a unique method ofhair waving, which will impart a natural wave to the hair, and whichwill facilitate distribution of the hair upon the curler. My method ischaracterized by the fact that the curler is positioned upon theprotector during the entire winding operation, and in that the strand iswound beginning with that portion of the strand nearest the protector,and winding toward the tip of the strand, so that the tip of the strandis outermost. However as distinguished from spiral waving, successiveconvolutions are placed upon top of each other.

Referring to the drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevational view, in cross section, illustratingapparatus which can be utilized in conjunction with my method.

Fig. 2 is a plan view of the retaining clip illustrated in Fig. 1, forsecuring the tip of the strand to the curler.

Fig. 3 is a side elevational detail showing the curler incorporated inthe apparatus of Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a plan view, illustrating clamping bars incorporated in theapparatus of Fig. 1, and which form a part of what can be termed aprotector.

Fig. 5 is a plan view, showing a member made of rubber, whichconstitutes a part of my protector.

Fig. 6 is a cross sectional view, illustrating the clutching meansincorporated in conjunction with the curler.

Fig. 7 is a cross sectional detail taken along the line 7-7 of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a side elevational view, illustrating a tool such as issuitable for use in conjunction with my method.

Fig. 9 is a front view of the tool illustrated in Fig. 8.

Fig. 10 is a plan view, showing my protector applied to a strand ofhair, and illustrating the tool of Figs. 8 and 9 in position forcommencing a winding operation.

Figs. 11 to 1'7 inclusive, illustrate successively different steps takenin carrying out my method, to completely wind the strand of hair upon acurler, and to secure the tip of the strand with respect to the curler.

Fig. 18 is an end view, partly in cross section, showing a heaterapplied to the wound hair, for the final heating operation.

Fig. 19 is a side elevational view, illustrating a modified form ofdevice for retaining the wound hair upon a curler.

Fig. 20 is an end view of the device illustrated in Fig. 19.

Fig. 21 is a side elevational view, illustrating the manner in which thedevice of Figs. 19 and 20 is employed to retain the coiled hair.

In carrying out my method I utilize a protector of the type which isadapted to be clamped upon a flattened strand of hair, adjacent thescalp. In conjunction with this protector, I utilize a curler which isadapted to be mounted upon a protector, likewise parallel to the scalp.As will be presently explained, during the course of my method, afterthe protector has been 105 clamped upon the strand of hair and thecurler positioned upon the protector, the strand is wound upon thecurler beginning with that por tion of the strand. nearest theprotector, and winding toward the tip of the strand. During 110 thiswinding operation successive convolutions of the hair are passed thru apart in the strand.

My method will be described in detail after a description of theapparatus illustrated in the drawings. Thus referring to Fig. 1, theapparatus shown therein consists of a protector 10, a curler 11, and adevice 12 which is utilized for securing the tip of the strand withrespect to the curler 11. While various types of protectors can. beutilized, the construction illustrated is similar to that disclosed incopending application Ser. No. 635,470, filed September 30, 1932, in thename of Ralph M. Keele. It is formed of two puts, illustrated in detailin Figs. 4 and 5. Referring first to Figure 4, I have shown clampingmeans comprising a pair of rigid clamping bars 13 and 14. One end ofclamping bar 14 is provided with offset links 16, which has a pivotalconnection 17 with one end of bar 13. The other end of bar 13 isprovided with a pivotal connection 18 with links 19. A cam latchinglever 21 is pivotally connected to links 19, and is adapted to engagewith a hook-shaped end portion 22 formed on bar 14. The sides and inneropposed'edges of bars 13 and 14 can be covered by members 23 (Figs. 4and 18) made of suitable. material such as wood.

That part of the protector illustrated in detail in Fig. 5, and which ispreferably made entirely of resilient rubber, consists of an upstandingportion 24, provided with a longitudinal slot 26, and adapted to beplaced between the clamping bars 13 and 14. Formed integral with portion24, there is a laterally extending skirt 27, adapted to underlieclamping bars 13 and 14, and which is provided with a lower surfacing 30of felt or like material. When a strand of hair is positioned withinslot 26, and portion 24 compressed by the clamping bars 13 and 14, thestrand is effectively gripped, and a seal is formed against passage ofhot vapor.

The particular form of curler 11 illustrated is provided with a squaredstud 29 projecting from its one end. This stud is associated withclutching means, whereby it is rotatable in only one direction withrespect to the body of the curler. For example as shown in Figs. 6 and7, stud 29 is formed upon one end of a shaft 31. Shaft 31 is is socketedwithin one end of the body of curler 11, and has its inner end connectedto a helicoidal spring 32. Spring 32 is fitted within a bore 33 formedin the body of the curler. Shaft 31 is retained in proper position bymeans of a keeper wire 34. When stud 29 is rotated in one direction withrespect to the body of the curler, there is a tendency for spring 32 tobe wound up, and thus it is permitted to turn within bore 33. Howeverwhen rotation in the opposite direction is attempted, spring 32 byvirtue of friction against the periphery of bore 33, tends to expand,thus-forming a locking engagement and preventing rotation of stud 29.Projecting from the other end of the body of the curler, here is a pin36, provided with a head 37 which is squared or otherwise formed tofacilitate engagement with a wrench or other turning tool.

In order to mount the curler 11 in proper positionupon the protector 10,link 16 is provided with an upstanding post or tab 38. Links 19 are alsoprovided with a similar upstanding post or tab 39. Posts 38 and 39 areprovided with slots 41, to receive the square stud 29 and pin 36 of thecurler. Obviously when the curler is positioned upon the protectorillustrated in Fig. 1, it may be rotated in only one direction.

The securing device illustrated in Figs. 1 and 2 may be of simpleconstruction, and as illustrated comprises an elongated bar 43, havingend portions 44 formed U-shaped. In other words the end portions 44 formspaced fingers 46, which are resilient, so that they can be clipped uponthe curler 11.

The tool of Figs. 8 and 9, which I prefer to utilize in carrying out mymethod, has been dis- 7 closed and claimed in cop'ending applicationSer. No. 627,826. Briefly, this tool consists of ablade 47, secured to asuitable handle 48. Blade 47 is bent to form a curved portion 49.Cooperating with and adjacent to blade 47, there is a second blade 51,which is likewise bent to form a curved portion 52 and which has itsouter end pointed'to form a nose portion 53. Immediately behind noseportion 53, the second blade member 52 is cut away to form a hairreceiving recess 54. Blade member 51 is pivotally connected to the blade47, by suitable means such as pin 56, and is biased toward closedposition by spring 57. By means of a handle 58 secured toblade member51, this member can be swung out to one side of the main blade 47. Theextremity of blade 47 is cut away to form a hook-shaped finger 59, whichserves normally to close the recess 54, and thus retain any hair whichmay be positioned within the same. Lug 60 serves as a stop to limitmovement of member 51 toward closed position. When the tool is opened,by pressing lever 58, the parts occupy a position such as illustrated inFig. 12, to permit positioning of a hair strand within the recess 54.

To carry out my method by the use of apparatus such as has beendescribed, the first operation is to segregate the strand of hair to bewaved, after which the protector 10 is clamped upon the hair strandadjacent the hair scalp. With the particular type of protectorillustrated this can be accomplished by first positioning the rubberpart illustrated in Fig. 5 upon the scalp, with the strand extendingthru slot 26, after which portion 24' is engaged by the clamping meansof Fig. 4. The flattened strand of hair is now securely gripped near'the roots of the hair, with the protector extend'ng parallel andadjacent to the scalp. At this time subsequent steps of my method aresomewhat facilitated it the hair is distributed in slot 26, to afford acentral part in the strand. In other words the strand is arranged in twosubstantially equal portions, which are spaced by a gap midway of thelongitudinal slot 26. The curler 11 is now placed upon the protector,and the winding operation commenced. To carry out this winding, the hairstrand is first laid over curler 11 as shown in Fig. 10. The noseportion 53 of the tool illustrated in Figs. 8 and 9, is now advanced bythe operator thru that portion of the strand lying between the curlerand the protector, and thru the space between the curler and theprotector. If the strand has not previously been d'stributed in twoportions along the longitudinal slot 26 as has been previouslydescribed, the thrusting of the tool thru the strand will serve to partthe same. If a part has already been formed, then the part may be spreador somewhat widened by thrusting thru the tool. The position of the toolafter it has been thrust thru the strand, is illustrated in Fig. 11. Theoperator now opens the tool by pressing lever 58. This open position ofthe tool is illustrated in Fig. 12. The operator now engages the entirestrand within recess 54, and permits the tool to close, as illustratedin Fig. 13. The tool is now retracted to the position illustrated inFig. 14, thus causing the strand to be pulled through the space betweenthe curler and protector, and thru the part in the strand. One completeloop has now been placed upon the curler. The strand is now again laidover top of the curler, and the tool again thrust thru the part andengaged with the strand. In Fig. 15, I have shown the tool engaged withthe strand and being thrust thru the part, and in Fig. 16 I have shownthe tool in retracted position to form a second complete loop of hairabout the curler. These operations are then continued untilsubstantially the entire strand has been wound upon the curler. It willbe noted that while the convolutions of hair upon the curler are placedone upon top of the other, the winding proceeds from that portion of thestrand nearest the protector, and progresses toward the tip of thestrand. After substantially all of the strand has been wound upon thecurler, the tip of the strand is secured with respect to the curler, bymeans of the securing device 12. The ends or" this device are slippedover the curler 11, to form a frictional engagement, and to cause theintermediate portion of bar 43 to be pressed with considerable pressureagainst the wound hair.

In carrying out the Winding as described above, it is preferable to wrapthe strand with a fair degree of tension. During the wrapping operationit is possible for the operator to use the fingers of one hand to steadythe curler or protector, and thus prevent unpleasant pull beingtransmitted to the scalp. After the winding has been completed, afurther degree of tension can be applied to the wound hair by turning ofthe curler in one direction with respect to the protector, and also bypull exerted upon the tip of the strand.

Assuming that the winding operation has been completed, and that thehair is properly tensioned upon the curler, the next operation is toapply heat to the wound hair, in order to lend permanency to the wave.Thus as illustrated in Fig. 18, a pad 62 of suitable absorbent material,such as flannel, is moistened with a suitable waving solution, andplaced over the wound hair. Over this pad there is then positioned asuitable heater 63. After the heating operation, it is a relativelysimple matter to remove the wound hair from the curler, and to removethe protector from the strand.

In the particular apparatus illustrated it has been pointed out that thecurler is detachable with respect to the protector, and is rotatable inone direction. It is possible however to utilize my method with a curlerwhich is so mounted with respect to the protector, as not to berotatable in one direction.

In Figs. 19-21, I have shown a modified type of securing device whichmay be turned after being applied to the wound hair, to effect furthertens'on. In this case the securing device is in the form of a clipformed by the curved elements '71 and 72 connected together by hinge 73.A suitable spring is incorporated in hinge '72, so that elements 71 and72 are urged together. Element 72 has one of its longitudinal edgesprovided with a row of comb teeth '74. The inner faces of elements 71and '72 are preferably lined with fabric or like material which willafiord considerable friction against the hair. In utilizing thismodified securing device, after the hair has been wrapped upon thecurler, the device is clipped upon the wound hair intermediate the endsof the curler, as shown in Fig. 21. To tension the hair the operatorturns the securing device about the curler, while manually pressing thetwo elements 71 and 72 together. Since the device is relatively shortcompared to the length of the curler it can be rotated thru the part inthe hair strand, until the desired degree of tension is attained.Once-the desired tension issecured, it will be maintained as long as thedevice remains in place. Comb teeth 74 aid in securing proper tension,and at the same time insure proper distribution of the hairs in the lastconvolutons o! the wrap.

I claim:

1. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler, thesteps of parting a fiattened strand of hair near the scalp, and thenwinding substantially the entire strand in successive loops upon thecurler with each loop passing thru the part 2. In a hair waving methodcharacterized by the use of a curler, the steps of parting a flattenedstrand of hair near the scalp, and then winding substantially the entirestrand in successive loops upon the curler with each loop passing thruthe part, and then maintaining the wound hair under tension while theheat is applied.

3. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and aprotector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the step ofclamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to thescalp, positioning the curler upon the protector, and then windingsubstantially the entire strand of hair upon the curler beginning withthat portion of the strand nearest the protector and winding toward thetip of the strand.

4. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and aprotector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the step ofclamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to thescalp, positioning the curler upon the protector and likewise parallelto the scalp, winding substantially the entire strand of hair upon thecurler beginning with that portion of the strand nearest the protectorand winding toward the tip of the strand, and then maintaining the woundhair under tension while heat is applied.

5. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and aprotector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the steps ofclamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to thescalp, positioning the curler upon the protector, causing the strand ofhair to be parted at a point between the protector and the curler, andthen winding substantially the entire strand in successive loops uponthe curler with each loop passing thru the part.

6. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler, thesteps of parting a flattened strand of hair near the scalp, windingsubstantially the entire strand in successive loops upon the curler witheach loop passing thru the part, and then securing the tip of the strandwith respect to the curler.

'7. In a hair waving method characterized by the use of a curler and aprotector adapted to be clamped upon a strand of hair, the steps ofclamping the protector upon a flattened strand of hair parallel to thescalp, positioning the curler upon the protector likewise parallel tothe scalp, causing the strand to be parted at a point adjacent to theprotector, winding substantially the entire strand in successive loopsupon the curler with each loop passing thru the part, securing the tipof the strand with respect to the curler, and then turning the curler inone direction with respect to the protector to tension the wound strand.

8. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, a protectoradapted to be clamped upon a flattened strand of hair adjacent thescalp,

an elongated curler adapted to be mounted upon the protector andlikewise parallel to the scalp, whereby the flattened strand may bewound upon the curler in such a manner that successive convolutions ofthe strand upon the curler pass thru a part in the strand, and so thatthe tip of the strand is outermost with respect to the wound hair, andmeans mounted upon the curler for securing the tip of the strand.

9. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, an elongatedcurler adapted to be disposed parallel to the scalp, whereby a flattenedstrand of hair may be wound upon the curler in such a manner thatsuccessive convolutions of the strand upon the curler pass thru a partin the strand, and so that the tip 01' the strand is outermost withrespect to the wound hair, and means for retaining the tip of the strandwith respect to the curler, said means comprising two curved hairembracing parts hingedly connected together.

10. In apparatus of the character described for waving hair, anelongated curler adapted to bedisposed parallel to the scalp, whereby aflattened strand of hair may be wound upon the curler in such a mannerthat successive convolutions of the strand upon the curler pass thru apart in the strand, and so that the tip of the strand is outermost withrespect to the wound hair, and means for retaining the tip of the strandwith respect to the curler, said means comprising two curved hairembracing parts hingedly connected together, 'oneoi' said parts beingprovided with hair engaging teeth.

WILLIAM H. H. DAVIS.

